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2015年1月6日 星期二

A Journey in Time .1st stop Tehran: 2 Sa'dabad Palace (時間之旅 :第一站 . 德黑蘭之二: 薩德亞巴德皇宫)

One of the first places we visited is the Sa'dabad Palace, built by the Pahlavi dynasty, (1925-1979), founded by Reza Shah Pahlavi, a military officer of the Persian Cossack Brigade, after a coup d'etat in 1921 when Ahmad Shah Qajar (the last shah of the Qajar dynasty) showed himself unable to resist British and Russian incursion into Persia. He quickly drove out the Russians and took active steps to modernize Iran by extensive programs of industrialization, urbanization, construction of a cross-country railways system, establishing a national educational system, improving health care and reforming the judiciary etc.thus creating a new educated professional middle class and a new industrial working class but in September 1941, Reza Shah Pahlavi (who studiously avoided awarding huge national contracts to British and Russian companies, preferring Germans, Italians and French companies instead for the sake of  balance of power) was forced io resign in favor of his son Mohammad Shah Pahlavi (who was educated in Western Europe) when Britain (concerned about its interest in the Ango-Iranian Oil Company in south-western Iran) and Soviet Union (after Germany invaded Russia in June 1961) invaded Persia in August 1941 after Reza Shah Pahlavi refused to expel all German nationals from Iran and to allow Allied troops to pass through the officially "neutral" Iranian territory and took control of all of Iranian communications and all railroads. Iranian oil thus fell under the joint control of Britain, America and the Soviet Union. Mohammad Shah Pahlavi who rose to power with the help of Britain and America, therefore agreed to join the Allies against Nazi Germany in 1943.
In January 1942, Britain, America and the Soviet Union signed an agreement with Iran to respect its independence and to withdraw their troops within six months of the ending of the world war. In 1943 at the Tehran Conference, America reaffirmed this commitment, and on 13 September, the Allies reassured the Iranians that all foreign troops would leave by 2 March 1946. But when the war ended in 1945, the USSR refused to announce a timetable to withdraw its troops from the north-western Iranian provinces of East and West Azerbaijan where Soviet-supported autonomy movements of the Turkic tribes had developed, assisted by the Iranian Communist Tudeh Party which had in the meantime become influential in the region and had some parliamentary seats and in November, 1945, Azerbaijan declared independence but this Soviet puppet state lasted only one year, after the Soviet Russians finally withdrew its troops under international political pressure in May, 1946
Up to 1935, "Iran " from the Proto-Iranian term "Aryānā", meaning "Land of the Aryans" ,  (the word "Ērān" having been found in a 3rd-century Sassanid inscription but the Parthian inscription that accompanies it uses the Parthian term "aryān" ) had always been called in the West "Persia", from the ancient Greek word  "Persis" itself derived from  "Pars" or "Fars", first used by the Iranian tribes themselves. It was Reza Shah Pahlavi who in 1935 first began to ask all foreigners to address his country officially by its traditional name of "Iran" instead of "Persia" but in 1959, Mohammad Shah Pahlavi, decreed that both "Persia" and "Iran" were acceptable and could be used interchangeably.
Mohammad Shah Pahlavi wanted to continue the reform policies of his father, but a power struggle soon erupted in 1951 between him and an older professional politician, the elected nationalistic Prime Minister Mohammad Mosaddegh, who nationalized the oil industries although Mohammad Shah Pahlavi was opposed to it. An attempt was made to assassinate Mohammad Shah Pahlavi by the pro-Soviet Tudeh Party. He fled Iran but returned when Britain and America staged a military coup d'etat against Mossadegh in August 1953 and had him arrested by the pro-Shah armed forces. Thereafter, Mohammad Shah Pahlavi engineered some constitutional reforms which increased his powers, outlawing the Tudeh Party and strengthening the armed forces (which were his power base, as was the case of his father). To prevent further opposition and to gain popular support, Reza Shah Pahlavi instituted the so-called "White Revolution" in 1963, involving a wide ranging program of reforms for the elimination of illiteracy, huge infra-structure building projects, more women and workers rights etc.But at the same time he tightened his control of the country by relying more and more on the use of the secret police  called "SAVAK" to suppress dissident voices, provoking opposition from intellectuals who wanted more democracy. His reforms also threatened the traditional authority of the religious leaders. It was obvious that Mohammad Shah Pahlavi saw himself as heir to the kings of ancient Iran: in 1971 he held a celebration of 2,500 years of the Persian monarchy and in 1976, he replaced the conventional western calendar (year 1355) with an "Imperial" calendar (year 2535) which began with the foundation of the Persian Empire over twenty-five centuries earlier. These actions were viewed as celebrating a pre-Islamic past, and resulted in more religious opposition by the clergy, particularly by the exiled cleric Ayatollah Ruhollah Khomeini. All this eventually culminated in the Islamic Revolution of 1978 and 1979, which deposed him, dissolved the SAVAK and replaced it with the SAVAMA. According to American and exiled Iranian sources, the new regime is run by Gen. Hossein Fardoust, who was deputy chief of SAVAK under Mohammad Reza's reign, and a friend from boyhood of the deposed monarch. In January 1979, Mohammad Shah Pahlavi and his family fled the country, the Shah seeking medical treatment in Egypt, Mexico, the United States, and Panama, and finally resettled with his family in Egypt as a guest of Anwar Sadat, thus officially ending a 4,679-year-old monarchic tradition in Iran. Upon his death on July 27, 1980 his son Crown Prince Reza Pahlavi succeeded him in absentia as heir apparent to the Pahlavi dynasty. Reza Pahlavi and his wife now live in Potomac, Maryland, USA with three daughters.


This is a map at the entrance to the Sa'dabad Palace. The Palace in fact consists of some 18 castles or houses which were first used as a residence by the Qajar dynasty monarchs and their royal families in the 19th century. After an expansion of the compounds in the 1920's , Reza Shah Pahlavi used it as his residence. In the 1970's, his son, Mohammad Reza Pahlavi also moved there. But after the Iranian Revolution, some parts of the palace complex have been turned into various museums. However, the current presidential palace is still located adjacent to the Sa'dabad compound and the palace named "Kakhe malakeye madar" is used by the Iranian President to entertain foreign dignitaries. We visited two of such houses viz. White Castle or White House, now called the National Museum Castle and the Shahvand Castle, now called the Green Museum and also the palace gardens.


This is the President's residence


 Another view of the same building


Part of the huge Palace Gardens 


These are the legs of a statue of  Mohammad Shah Pahlavi in front of the "White House" . The upper parts of the statue were destroyed following the Islamic Revolution of 1979



The White House or White Palace where the Pahlavis lived. It has 10 ceremonial halls. Its exterior is built in the style of German palaces and its interior in that of French palaces  


This is a statue of one of the mythical heroes in Persian history. Where his arrow landed would be the boundary of ancient Persia.


The explanatory plaque in front of the White Palace


One of the bronze statues in the reception hall on the ground floor

The reception hall


The dining hall 


The busts of the Pahlavis


More busts of the royal family  


 Is that Pan, the God of Wine?


The great banquet hall


 One of the tables seen through the glass panes


 Another table


Another bronze statue outside the banquet hall


 The waiting room


Another part of the waiting room


An Indian elephant ?


 another part of the bedroom  


A schooner


 a window on the staircase to the first floor looking out into the royal garden


 A jaguar in the waiting hall


Chandeliers in the family room


 The Royal Office


The billiard room


One of the hanging carpets in the room


 guards on the door to the waiting room


 A Chinese lion in the Royal Garden 


Another Chinese lion there



A house in the garden


Another house in the royal garden


Frost on the Palace grounds


A royal path


Some gardeners taking a morning break


Fallen leaves everywhere give an impression of desolation


Some marsh grass in the garden


a stream by the side of the path


The Green Palace the chandeliers, glass wares, furniture, carpets, paintings, sculptures, mirrors, artworks and other decorations etc inside which were ten times more beautiful than those in the White Palace but unfortunately we are not allowed to take any photographs in there.


One of the many gates  to the Palace


A relief on the side of one of the paths


Fallen leaf caught by dried up shoots


Leaves on the pool outside the Green Palace


More leaves


Sun behind the tree


A few new leaves sprouting amidst the general desolation


New and old

 
Now one can only imagine how it would look in summer with the sunlight reflecting from the sparkling surface of the water from its fountain green with the color of tree leaves surrounding it from all those trees on the path and the other side of the royal garden!

(To be cont'd) 

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