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2013年10月9日 星期三

Balkans 9: Belgrade 2 (巴爾幹半島之行九 :貝爾格萊德之二)


After lunch, we were taken to one of the most famous sights of the city, the Fortress complex known as Kalemegdan (Kale=a Turkish word meaning "fortress" and "megdan"=battlefield) in the old town. As the city had been razed to the ground 44 times because of various wars, the abstract "horrors of war"  suddenly took on a "concrete" form for me when I visited it.


Flowers at the entrance of a park before we reach our destination

  To reach the Fortress, we need to first pass through a huge park.



It's a big park, full of tall trees, a most pleasant walk


A tree sprouting new branches


Flowers in the garden


It's one of the favourite parks for the locals 


A bust of a one of the famous national literary figures: Kocta C Tavwahobnk 1(854-1902)

  
Another one called C Tebah CT. Mokpahbau (1856-1914. According to the local guide, they are all literary figures. 


 This is the famous Clock Tower of the fortress complex , built the 1st and 18th century and bears witness of the different conquering cultures; Roman, Byzantine, Austrian-Ottoman, and Serbians.


a closer look of the Clock Tower, where we were supposed to meet after our free time. 


The clock tower from another angle.


 This is a small museum found close to the entrance to the Fortress


A natural crystal exhibition?
  
This the entrance to the Fortress which were successively built over, rebuilt on old foundations from 1st Century to the 18th Century and bears witness of the different conquering cultures and man's capacity for greed, glory and gore: Roman, Byzantine, Austrian, Ottoman Turkish and Serbia . Wars, wars, wars and wars. They never seem to end.


The Fortress grounds are now used as a museum of the weapons of human destruction: tanks, canons etc. 


One of the big canons. How many died from it? 


  A huge canon for firing mortars?


The other side of the Fortress is also used for displays various canons used

 
How much metal went into the production of this canon?


Various tanks on display


This is part of the Fortress walls, in solid bricks of stone. In the background one see the River Danube

This is where the River Sava joins the River Danube. It explains why the Fortress was built there in the first place. 


It can be seen that the Fortress was built on top of a hill overlooking the Danube River, a little distance from the river banks.

Belgrade is a city with many races: the Slavs from the north are much taller, the local Serbians are much smaller.

One of the watch towers at the side of the Fortress Wall. Behind it, one sees  the partly obscured roof of a church. It seems that church and state can rarely be separated especially in times of war. 


On the opposite side of the river, one sees an old-fashioned 19thC propeller river boat for tourist

This is the location where the Sava joins the Danube. On the left of the photo is the new town of Belgrade


 Close to the edge of the Fortress and overlooking the rivers and the city of Belgrade is a huge pillar: a naked man with sword on one hand and an eagle in the other, erected in in 1928:  the Messenger of Victory Monument.  Quite a few interesting thing to see, for instance the old gates, the Clock Tower, the Despot Stefan Tower (from 1405, now an observation tower), the tomb of Damad-Ali Pash (an Ottoman Turkish general and Grand Vizier), and the Messenger of Victory Monument (from 1928).


A view of the front of the Messenger of Victory: he doesn't look very pleased!

 At one end of the Fortress, is military museum recording the history of various WWII battles etc and weapons and military accessories used.  it's external walls do not appear to be well preserved. Displayed outside are various canons, old and new, all built for one exclusive purpose: destruction of life and property.

A camouflaged armed carrier
 

19th century canons


a closer look at some of them: fine copper barrel
 

Another monument to celebrate the help of French soldiers in helping to liberate Belgrade at WWI 


One sees the words "A la France" one of the sides of the pedestal. Noting the female form, I asked the local guide if the French sent their women. He laughed.

Souvenirs for sale at the side of one of the paths leading to the little garden

All kinds of stuffs are for sale, wine bottle, gloves, china model of one of the local churhces, old cars etc.


Military caps, medals, 


Children's shoes, socks and gloves

Wine bottles, glasses, statues in stone, clay figurines etc.


Wine bottles in glass and wood!


Caps military and sports and non-sport

Helmets, military knives

Motor cycle spectacles, whiskey flasks

wine barrel and bottles


carved wine barrels and jugs


We were next taken for a quick coach tour of the city. One can see that the door to the building are solid and strong: the wisdom of being in a war-torn nation?


One of the buildings we passed through in the streets, quite old and not in very good condition

  The University of Belgrade


The  National Library of Belgrade


The party headquarters of the biggest political party in the country

 The new military headquarters?


A building bombed by NATO forces in 1999, then the military headquarters


Part of the building


Another view of the bombed building

A more distant view of the bombed building


The Ministry of Foreign Affairs


 The Ministry of Interior


 The local version of the so-called "Arch of Triumph"  of Paris


A monument to one of the earliest Prince Mihailo Obrenović (1823-1868, Prince of Serbia). The son of Prince Miloš and Princess Ljubica, he first came into power following the death of his elder brother Milan (1839). The sultan confirmed him to be an elected, but not a hereditary prince. Toma Vučić initiated an uprising in August 1842 and forced him into exile, bringing Alexander Karageorgevich to the throne. He spent six years outside the country and during this time assisted many Serbs working in literature (Vuk Karadžić, Đura Daničić, Branko Radičević and others). When Miloš returned to Serbia in 1858 Mihailo accompanied him and took over high command over the army. Regained the throne once more after the death of Prince Miloš in 1860. He established a national army with approximately 50,000 soldiers in 1861, aiming to finally rid Serbia of the Turks. Expecting war with Turkey he made alliances and agreements with other Balkan states – Montenegro, Greece, Bulgaria and Romania. Having finalized the preparations for war, he was assassinated during a walk in Košutnjak in 1868.

There are churches everywhere

Another building in German style we passed by


This is the Cathedral of St. Sava, the largest Orthodox Church in Servia, built from 1935 on in several phases from donations and is not yet finished with marble at the Slavija Square.


Another view of the Cathedral


 Another view of the church


Beside the Cathedral is another small church, one of the oldest in Serbia, dedicated to St. Sophia. I went inside and took a peep.


 Part of the murals on the roof


 Another part of the roof


The mural looks quite new 


Another mural


 A worship was in progress. There are no seats: all faithful attend service standing . The Byzantium chants were heavenly.


The murals are very beautiful: simple and non-perspectival


A mosaic above one of the entrances


a local saint: Tpovaomb Cbonmb?


 He looks quite impressive



 After dinner, I decided to take a look in the area around our hotel. This is probably one of the founders of the Belgrade University, a short distance from our hotel



One of the buildings close by


This is the National Assembly Building by night.



 A city train with 2 cars



A news stand

 
The Engineering Faculty Building of Belgrade University


This is the municipal museum

 
The St Mark's Church



Children having fun for a photoat upon a statue in a park close to our hotel.

(To be Cont'd)

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