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2013年11月22日 星期五

Balkans 19: Sofia & Veliko Tarnovo ( 巴爾幹半島之行19 :蘇菲亞. 維力高塔盧夫)


After a good night's sleep, I could get up early


Our hotel in Sophia, the capital of Bulgaria


The sun was coming up



 I could take a good look at where our hotel was: right at the side of a park

 

It was a cloudy day


Our breakfast room


After breakfast, I took a look around: the hotel lobby


An unusual angle on one of the lobby walls


the decorations on the first floor conference hall


seeds


chillis


Mushrooms


Bikes outside the hotel


We were taken to see the most famous church in the city : the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral (Bulgarian: Храм-паметник „Свети Александър Невскиbuilt) built in the Revival Style of the Bulgarian Empire. After gaining independence in 1878, the Bulgarian Constitutive National Assembly decided to build the cathedral to commemorate St. Alexander Nevsky (Sveti Aleksandar Nevski), the patron of the Tsar-Liberator's victory over the Teutons near Lake Ladog.  Though its corner stone was laid in 1882, serious work on it was done between 1904-1912. It was completed in 1916 and sanctified in 1924. It was designed by architect Alexander Pomerantsev, assisted by Alexander Smirnov and Alexander Yakovlev and a team of Bulgarian, Russian, Austro-Hungarian and other European artists, architects and workers. Built in the neo-Byzantine style, it was  intended to recall Instanbul's Hagia Sophia. It has a bell tower in 174 feet and 12 bells weighing 23 tons, the heaviest weighing 12 tons and the lightest 22 pounds. It was decorated with the help of the best Soviet artists. It's the Bulgarian Orthodox cathedral in Sofia, the capital of Bulgaria and is one of the largest Eastern Orthodox cathedrals in the world and the second-largest cathedral on the Balkans, after the Cathedral of Saint Sava in Belgrade as well as one of Sofia's symbols and primary tourist attractions. It covers an area of 34,100 sq ft and can hold 10,000 and has a cross-domed basilica featuring an emphasized 148-feet central dome, which has the Lord's prayer inscribed on it in gold. Its interior is decorated with Italian marble in various colours, Brazilian onyx, alabaster, and other luxurious materials. Saint Alexander Nevsky was a Russian prince who helped Bulgaria gain independence from the Ottoman Turks during the Russo-Turkish War of 1877-1878 and the cathedral was also built in memory of the Russian soldiers who died during that war. The marble parts and the lighting fixtures were created in Munich, the metal elements for the gates in Berlin, while the gates themselves manufactured in Vienna and the mosaics shipped from Venice.The name of the cathedral was briefly changed to the Sts. Cyril and Methodius Cathedral between 1916-1920 (because Bulgaria and Russia were then on opposite sides in WWI), but when hostilities ceased, its initial name was restored. The cathedral was proclaimed a cultural monument on 12 September 1924. On the left of the altar,there is a case displaying a fragment of the rib of Alexander Nevsky as the church's relic, a gift of the Russian Orthodox Church.


Some of the domes


A front view of the church


Then we were led to its vicinity


The city lion


A memorial to the bishop who led the efforts in the building of the cathedral


St. Alexander Nevsky


St. Sophia 




The local bishop

There is a crypt beneath the church which used to house the tombs of high ranking priests of the church but since 1965, had been turned into a museum of old Bulgarian art with the largest collection of icons in the Balkans 


A window of the cathedral


The streets were wide


 This is the Bulgarian Parliament

 

This is the Academy of Science but it's facing financial difficulties because the government refuses to continue to pay subsidies for its functioning. 


This is the police headquarters, if I remember correctly. After this brief tour of an hour and a half, we are on our way again because we got to travel 260 km that day.


 A supermarket opposite our rest stop


Aerodium, whatever that is. I asked the guide, he didn't know either.


right next to rest stop, there's a tyre changing facility




The tyres were really huge


this is how they move them around


This is how they move trucks



Magazine cover of Biorap


Another magazine cover




One of the tour group members would take at least a beer at every rest stop


All kinds of beers are available for truckers


and not just beers


white wines


red wines, whiskeys


 rosé, port, sherry, rum, vodka 


We're off again


it was a cloudy day


 we passed through more hills and tableland


But mostly rolling plains 

Some of the crops have been harvested, leaving behind old stalks


Time for lunch again at Veliko-Turnovo



Plenty of wine samples on the staircase landing



A painting on the wall



We could a get a view of the River Yantra below

A closer view of the river
 

Veliko Turnovo is built on the hillside

Our starters


Bulgarian pizza


Our guide


The two cooks who prepared the pizza with log-wood fire



Dishes ready to serve



Our dessert


beans and pasta for window decoration!



Time to go



The road to our hotel


The main road to the Veliko (or great) Tarnovo (Bulgarian: Велико Търново, ), a town of about 100,000 in north central Bulgaria and the administrative centre of Veliko Tarnovo Province, frequently called the "City of the Tsars", located on the Yantra River, is famous as the historical capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire. The old part of the city is situated on the three hills Tsarevets, Trapezitsa, and Sveta Gora rising amidst the meanders of the Yantra. 
 

This is the commercial heart of the town


All  sorts of old fashioned wares on sale


As it was a small town, no much attention is paid to presentation


An interesting display outside of a shop


native arts and crafts for sale


woodcraft for sale


colorful ladles and cow bells


a local family coming out of a local fast food shop
 

copper Turkish coffee pots


charms hung on a local tree branch

A mural in the street

Another mural


The winding road up the Tarnovo Castle on the Tsarevets where the old palaces of the Bulgarian emperors and the Patriarchate, the Patriarchal Cathedral, as well as a number of administrative and residential edifices were built, surrounded by thick walls. Trapezitsa is known for its many churches and as the former main residence of the nobility. In the Middle Ages, the city was among the main European centres of culture and gave its name to the architecture of the Tarnovo Artistic School, painting of the Tarnovo Artistic School and literature. Veliko Tarnovo is an important administrative, economic, educational, and cultural centre of Northern Bulgaria. The original names Tarnovgrad and Tarnovo come from the Old Bulgarian тръневъ (tranev) or тръновъ (tranov), meaning "thorny". The suffix "grad" means "city" in Bulgarian and in many Slavic languages. In 1965, the word велико (veliko) (meaning "great")was added, in honour of the city as an old capital of Bulgaria. But Tarnovo remains the most used name by the locals.Veliko Tarnovo has a history of more than five millennia, the first traces of human presence on Trapezitsa Hill dating from the 3rd millennium BC . Between the 12th and 14th centuries in the middle ages, it grew quickly into the strongest Bulgarian fortification and the most important political, economic, cultural and religious centre of the empire.As the Byzantine Empire weakened in the 14th century, Tarnovo prided itself as the Third Rome based on its preeminent cultural influence in Eastern Europe. As the capital of the Second Bulgarian Empire, Tarnovo was a quasi-cosmopolitan city, with many foreign merchants and envoys including Armenian, Jewish and Roman Catholic ("Frankish") merchant who had their own quarters besides a dominant Bulgarian population. The discovery of three Gothic statuette heads indicates there may have also been a Catholic church.In 1393, Tarnovo was seized by the Ottoman Turks and the whole Bulgarian Empire collapsed. Many Bulgarian towns and villages, monasteries and churches were burnt down. Under Ottoman rule, the town was renamed Tırnova. It revolted twice, the first in 1598 (the First Tarnovo Uprising) and 1686 (the Second Tarnovo Uprising) but both failed to throw off Turkish rule. Tarnovo was at first made a district (sanjak) centre of Rumelia Eyalet, after that of Silistria Eyalet and finally of Danube Vilayet before becoming part of the Principality of Bulgaria. It remained under Turkish rule until the 19th century, when national identity and culture reasserted themselves and the town revolted in 1875 and 1876 . On 7 July 1877, Russian general Joseph Vladimirovich Gourko liberated Veliko Tarnovo, ending the 480-year-rule of the Ottoman Empire. In 1878, the Treaty of Berlin created a Principality of Bulgaria between the Danube and the Stara Planina range, with its seat at this town. On 17 April 1879, the first National Assembly convened in Veliko Turnovo to ratify the state's first constitution, known as the Tarnovo Constitution, transferring the Parliament from Tarnovgrad to Sofia. In deference to the city's past, Tsar Ferdinand Saxe-Coburg Gotha chose the St Forty Martyrs Church in Veliko Tarnovo as the place to declare the complete independence of Bulgaria on 5 October 1908.In 1965, the city, then officially known as Tarnovo, was renamed to Veliko Tarnovo (Great Tarnovo) to commemorate its rich history and importance.Today the town is undergoing extensive construction, including reconstruction of the old city and some of the buildings on historical streets. The two universities, the American University and Agriculture University give the town a youthful and educated feel. The city also hosts many culture activities such as music from Bulgarian and foreign singers, theater, and festivals. Today the town is also one of Bulgaria's biggest manufacturers of sweets. 96% of its population are Bulgarians.

In the distance we can see Patriarchal Church



The entrance to the Tarnovo Castle


The coat of arms of old Tarnovo



The walls of the castle extended for many miles



Going up to the heart of the castle


Medieval weaponry


The left bank of Yantra River


The right bank of the Yantra River


Both sides of the Yantra River


Bells on top of the Trapezitsa 


The city walls can be clearly seen


The path up the heart of the castle


A plan of the old castle


The high castle walls


A part of the castle


A little girl trying to look through the telescope



The newer part of the town


The old palace


The old palace from another angle


A full view of the old palace




The clouds above the castle


The old cathedral


The site of the old palace


A closer view of the old palace


The palace from another angle


The Yantra River from a different angle


The Cathedral from a different angle


The former palace


The two levels of the castle


The entrance to the old castle


The old palace from another angle

The Yantra River settlement

The plaza leading to the entrance to the castle

 

A panoramic view of the old castle


One of the houses in an alley


 grapes in the street


Rows of shops


A shop window


A tiger? 

A hippo 

A chicken

A rag doll 


Shoulder bag


scarves


wool dolls

A woodcutter


cockerels in wood 


Cermaics


More ceramics

 

leather bird


leather cat


leather pig/elephant


ceramic pear


More ceramic fruits


bronzes


A tropical lady


a painting

portrait of the town



a religious painting


An abstract painting
 

handmade pasta
 

notice for genuine handmade pasta


Sex shop display


More of the same


decoration in front of a shop


Roadside flowers  in purple


More roadside flower in red


roadside flower in orange and red




Roadside flowers in purple


Roadside flowers in red


roadside flower in white


A rare combination of colors


a threesome

A colorful house


Another part of main road


narrow cobbled stone street


murals 

Graffiti


More graffiti


More graffiti


graffiti on the steps


More graffiti on the steps


More of the same


A different style


graffiti in front of a shop


Graffiti on a peeled off wall


a detail


Another graffiti


garbage bins


The monument to Ascenevci on the other side of town


Another view in perspective


Some of the shops are empty
 

Some of the houses are dilapidated


 An abandoned shop


Some blue strings are left


a window is painted


a peeling wall


An old fashioned shop sign

An old fashioned door rapper


steps going down between two houses


The town library


The corridor outside the library


The houses on a quiet side street

 

Cathedral of Kolyo Ficheto for Birth of Theotokos completed 1844 and rebuilt 1913. 


front view of the church


a view of the church from a different side

Who is this with a gun in his hand? One of the 40 martyrs who died defending the city in the revolt of 1875 or 1876?

 

a log cabin close to the church overlooking the Yantra valley below


 two children playing in front of the church

 

The entrance to our restaurant


Our restaurant


The same street after dark


Children's playground at night


The town at night


illuminated decorations


A display in front of the entrance to some houses


A main road at night



The independence monument in front of our hotel


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